BELLS NOT BOMBS

"They will beat their swords into plowshares

And their spears into pruning hooks

Nation will not take up sword against nation,

Nor will they train for war anymore"

Isiah 2:4

While visiting Vang Vieng, Laos, I had the opportunity to visit Elephant Cave, and I was blessed with a lesson of peace. All of my Catholic/Jesuit/Karios Community friends are well familiar with the verse above, and this could not be a more beautiful example of peacemaking and turning "swords into plowshares" - or in this case - bombs into bells. 

 I would dare to say that 99% of Americans could not point to Laos on a map.  (Admittedly, I probably couldn't have either a year ago). Probably even fewer know that we decimated this country with our bombs thirty years ago. During our secret bombing of Laos during the Vietnam War, we dropped over 2 million tonnes of bombs on this tiny country - more than all of the bombs dropped during World War II altogether!!! making Laos

the most bombed country in the world. 

(More bombed than Germany? Iraq? Vietnam? Yes. yes. yes.)

As if that wasn't enough horror, an estimated 30% of these bombs never exploded, and still lay silent in fields, awaiting a plow, farmer, or playing child to come along and knock them into explosion. Thousands of people die every year in Laos from "bombies" - unexploded bombs left from American raids. Farmers and families are starving to death because they cannot plant their fields out of fear of coming across a de-facto land mine and blowing up. 

I don't feel like getting into the million other ways that we destroyed this country, because I never needed more reasons to be ashamed of American history to begin with. What did little Laos ever do to big America? (Nothing.) Why did we even do this in the first place? (Still not sure.) What are we doing now to fix these atrocities?? (Not much).

But this BELL - this beautiful bell. It's amazing to me how a community can come across such a symbol of American oppression and death to their own country and turn in into a musical instrument for their local temple. It is rung every morning and evening to call the monks to temple and prayer. This shell, just like the millions of  other ones that kill children and farmers every day in Laos, was polished and painted and turned into something made for meditation, enlightenment, and peace. This sword that is now a plowshare sends a message of hope for the reconciliation of my own country's injustices on this small nation. A transformation from violence to harmony, and a lesson to be learned for everyone.

works cited/ read for yourself:

http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/2003-12-11-laos-bombs_x.htm

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/1100842.stm

Family Vacation on a Nazi Boat ... (and other adventures)

So, I've spend the last month unexpectedly traveling through Laos and Vietnam.... How those kind of things happen "unexpectedly" I"m not sure, but here inSoutheastAsia they just do. One day I was spending my afternoon at my fancy gym in Chiang Mai, while a mere 48 hours later I was cooking rice over a fire in the middle of rural Laos....

I have serious whip lash from the transition into Vietnam from Laos. While Laos' pace of life is similar to that of molasses, Vietnam is all hustle bustle whizzing by...


I spent the past few days on what can only be referred to as a Nazi Boat touring through Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island. While the scenery is breathtaking, I can't help but feel like I'm in some kind of tourist factory... being shuttled from one activity to another, quick stops for generic meals, and being asked "Are we having fun?!?!" By Vietnamese with wicked smiles glued to their faces the whole time....

In Thailand, it is well known by everyone who's been there that there are no rules, especially for tourists. Whatever the falang says, goes. It is was makes Thailand so popular and so easy to travel through. Thai (and Laos) people love falang... and, well... Vietnamese people.... do not.... On the Nazi Boat around Cat Ba, we were being told what not to do so many times that I was having wicked flashbacks of sophomore year in highschool that soon turned into realities.... Due to the "do not BYOB" rule, yet an overpriced wine list onboard, we were forced to sneak vodka into our tiny, cramped cells and drink booze out of water bottles so the Dutch grandparents we were sailing with wouldn't judge us.... (not to mention the severe nazi punishment we would receive!)

The contrast in pace also requires some major adjustment. Vietnam's congested traffic, constant honking, and persistant vendors are indeed a little jarring. Especially remembering the slow and lazy nights we had in Laos, sitting around eating sticky rice, freely sipping lao lao at our leisure, and telling stories... ah, peaceful, free, Laos.... like some kind of foggy mountain dream....

Red shirts and water fights

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/8616339.stm
[the last video footage by the Japanese journalist who was killed right off of Khao San]

quick update, because its been awhile and im in the center of chaos right now.

Bangkok has been making a lot of news lately because of the red shirts, and although i havent been following religiously, it may be just as bad the media is reporting. (but then again, i just got here)

today also starts Buddhist New Year - which means constant water fights by hoses, buckets, and soaking your neighbor by any means necessary.

On Khao San, the main backpackers street in Bangkok, the stark contrast at the end of the road is incredible.

[there are a million poignant pictures to take here, but unfortunately my camera now belongs to a nameless Khmer child in Phnom Phen...]

On one side of Khao San there are hundreds of shirtless, soaking travelers and backpackers dancing, rap music blaring, dousing eachother with icy cold water to bring in the new year...

and the thai people, the red shirts, on the other end of the street, are not only dry, but sucked of the joyous party atmosphere that exists only feet away. broken glass and rocks cover the road, all the storefronts and restaurants are closed for blocks to due broken windows and general fear. The center  of the street is roped off by waving thai flags where there is a memorial for two people killed by the government military earlier yesterday. talking with some red shirts on the street, between 10 and 20 protesters have been killed. thai people walk by somberly, offering gifts of thai flags, water bottles, flowers, coins and red bull.

the contrast in the two atmospheres, in pure sight and emotion, is overwhelming.

this protest has lasted over a month for the red shirts, and now its turning violent at the time of New year - a time that's supposed to bring hopeful rebirth and new beginnings. it seems that that won't be happening any time soon here in Bangkok...

tuk-tukin' round the YOOT

So I've lived in Ayutthaya (pronounced uh-YOOT-tai-yaaa, and affectionately nicknamed The YOOT ) for almost 4 months now, so i figured it was about time i saw all the sights. with a friend in town and the sun shining, i finally had an excuse to be a tourist in my own city.

Kassem was our tuk tuk driver and tour guide for the day, and quite frankly, he was The Man. he spoke Thai with us - clearly and slowly - and somehow perfectly estimated how much we knew, because at all the right moments he would slip into a very articulate english.  "dern chaa chaa bundai jet sip gao ... around the back of the gold chedi behind the stupa... hen buddha suay maag". Not only did we understand HIS thai, but HE understood OUR thai - which is an amazing accomplishment in this little city.

In our further Thai-glish conversations with Kassem, we found out he was quite the ladies man,  also enjoyed rice whiskey, and wouldn't stop teasing me when my face got red after drinking a beer (damn asian flush).

of all the sights in ayutthaya, the reclining buddha is my favorite.This buddha is one of my favorite poses in general, where Buddha is about to die after his lifelong meditative battle with earthly suffering, escape samsara [reincarnation] and enter into nirvana [kind of like heaven, but not].

i find Ayutthaya's RB more beautiful than the more famous one in Bangkok's Wat Pho, mainly because you can actually see the whole thing at one time, and its not obtructed by pillars, nor contained by ceilings. It's just chillin' under the clouds, his orange robe wafted by wind, gold stickers sparkling in sunlight. He is relaxed and reclined, about to enter into the sweet blissful state of nirvana, and his expression captures this perfectly. his smile is sneaky and mysterious like the Mona Lisa, but definately at peace, euphoric with spiritual detachment and looking forward to his future liberation. he just looks so... content. almost smug. i love it.

Side Note: This is perhaps the reason why I prefer temples and buddhas over churches and crosses. Tell me the last time you were in a church surrounded by images of Jesus looking smug.... (never. its depressing.)

Another noteworthy temple of the Yoot is Wat Phu Khao Thong, an impressive chedi consisting of 79 steps but a rather bland extertior. While the name means "Golden Mount", it is actually white. More like dirty gray. But endure the 79 step walk up, and on the base of the chedi you will find a very small door, about 4 feet high, like something from Alice and Wonderland. It leads you down an equally shallow hallway, and there you will discover something amazing. Deep inside this pyramid there is small, clostrophobic room, 20 degrees hotter than it is outside, stuffy and... sparkling. It covered with glitter and gold, including a magnificent ruby Buddha unlike i've ever seen.

A monk was sitting quietly in the "room" already, but it was more like a closet. With only me, Eva, and the monk, the space was packed, the unmoved air stuffy with incense and farang sweat. Overcome with sparkling idols, I bowed to the ruby Buddha and humbly excepted a gift of sacred thread (yet another) and a blessing from the resident monk.

Our trip around Ayutthaya was tireless, but somehow visiting temples always leaves me rejuvenated and propitious. The city of Ayutthaya, it turns out, is much like the Golden Temple itself. As an outside observer,  it may look simply old and dusty. But look closer, and you will find a history deep as it is dirty, and full of beauty and blessings  in the most unexpected places.

Haiku Friday

On a Thursday! Lucky you.

On Thailand........


Full Moon over sand

buckets of booze all abound

Douchebag Paradise



***


"An iced coffee, please"

But when it reaches my lips

Am I drinking cake?





***

Tuk-Tuk twenty baht

black exhaust smells quite noxious

I need a SARS mask




***


Sunburnt robes layered

Your bright curtain engulfs you

What lies underneath?





***

A sweet, sticky clump

of coconut and white rice

with mango, I drool






On American Politics.....


Since when is war Peace?

A surge of violence out East

Barack, earn your prize



***


Yo, Copenhagen!


This blue planet needs healing


Stop fucking around



***


GITMO still open



Black hoods and jumpsuits I wore


their Justice denied

F U, ELEPHANT

Warning: profanity ahead. Inspired by the hilarious www.FUPenguin.com

So of course I thought Joe was joking when he said that you could play the harmonica better than me! You’re an elephant, for Christ’s sake. I assumed that because I have lips, I have the ability to blow air into little aluminum crevices better than you. You only have that that long-ass nose you grab bananas with…. And yet apparently this is superior to my pathetic little human mouth and chubby but conveniently mobile fingers.

IT WASN’T ENOUGH that I’ve spent my ENTIRE MUSICAL CAREER coming in second place to Asians . But no, second chair violinists and 3rd place piano player to the human Asian race wasn’t enough. Now I’m surpassed by the Asian ELEPHANT? On the least-complex instrument ever? You don't even have a TIGER MOM. You have got to be kidding me.

And you HAD to throw in that little dance routine, didn’t you? Rub salt in my white, untalented, callused wounds, why don’t you????

Now, not only am I embarrassed, I owe Joe ten beers. Ten of your own GD “Chang” Beers – you self promoting, big-earred whore. F U, Asian Elephant. For being so god damn adorable with your charming musical ability…. And reminding me how much a suck at life. Thanks a lot.

The Frugal Traveler: 36 Hours in Tak Province

Lonely Planet: Thailand aka The Backpackers Bible, refers to Tak as "particularly uninteresting", only including it in the book because "you might get stuck here".

I first came to the city intentionally (if only to meet up with some friends), but ironically, did actually "get stuck" there my second night, after finding out the buses didn't go to Mae Sot on the King's Birthday. Fortunately, Lonely Planet's review of this city may be an unfair write-off of hidden gem in Northern Thailand. While it doesn't have any outstanding "sites" per se, it does have some scenic river views ...and frozen cocktails. Throw in some bicycles to scoot around in, and the company of 4 wonderful people, and this city is worth more than a night passing through....

Whatever reason brings you to Tak, be sure to stay at the incredibly character-building Mae Ping Hotel. You might recognize the bathrooms from horror films such as SAW I-V and Hostel, as I'm pretty sure they were all filmed within these drippy, rustic tile walls. * Also, it's good to know that if the villians from these films ever did show up here, the rock-hard pillows could be used as lethal weapons.... seriously.

Those late nights watching Iron Chef at 4am in America will pay off when you visit Hot Pot the next afternooon for an endless buffet of creative soup conoctions - boiled cow stomach, bok choy... maybe some sushi... then of course don't forget the redbean and corn desserts. If you can even bare to stand up after this feast , exit the back into ... the Arcade!!! Watch out for air-hockey pucks that come flying towards your face.

Later, use the rickety Indiana Jones bridge to cross the Me Nam Ping, drink some beers on the "beach", shoot some fireworks if you got 'em, and watch wild horses toss their trainers into the sand.

Steal some bikes from your friends apartment to visit lesser known sites such as the Shrine to King Thaksin, the nameless road-side vegan restaurant (!!!), and then sit by the river and watch the Thais play on the newly-famous Tak tree swing, or effortlessly catch gigantic fish for dinner without so much as a fishing pole.

After the sun goes down, wander around the Night Market for an authentic eating and shopping experience. And while every city in Thailand has a night market to peruse- not every city has the friendliest roti lady in Thailand, or a VW Bus serving mysterious coffee drinks out of its side door.....

When it comes down to it, I guess it's the simple pleasures, the hot food, and the good company that allows you to open up and enjoy an otherwise average , middle-sized city in the center of Thailand. But next time you're traveling to Mae Sot, Um Phang, or Sukhothai... forget what the Bible says... and make sure to "get stuck" in Tak.